MIKES PROBLEM BUILDING 1500HP TWIN TURBO FERRARI F12 …

well today is like most days and that means we're working on the F12 there's still quite a bit to be done and it's a lot of detail stuff but uh we're making a lot of progress and we're still on track to get the car done in the next uh month month and a half hopefully that's the plan everything is kind of coming along um we do have a few issues which uh I'll talk about in a little bit but uh let me give you an update to what we're doing right now so Tim has been working on the front suspension yeah put some stuff on cuz I know uh you wanted to change some stuff with the other little uh Caster arm Yeah so basically uh we got all this stuff done so I finished welded everything and we got it painted up so it's all ready to get bolted up but this spot right here had a regular heim joint which can move um and I wasn't able to get the shock exactly dead center uh with a pivot point so there is a little bit of twist in there so to eliminate that problem we got a solid H joint to go in there which uh I'll show you what that looks like this is a regular he joint so it's in a ball and it can pivot but this is basically just a solid chunk of metal so this will keep that um lined up and won't allow it to Pivot so that's going to keep the uh suspension from rocking back and forth which would basically it would move and bind up before the shock starts to move up and then as it decompresses the wheel would actually twist back or the suspension would actually twist and go back down before the shock started working so that is not ideal at all especially if we add a sway bar to the car a front sway bar it's going to go somewhere on the control arm um the good thing is that we painted these with steel it which is this polyurethane paint that actually has stainless steel in it so it's weldable so instead of powder coating it which you would have to grind off the powder coat uh before we could weld it with this paint we can just paint it we can weld on it later add stuff to it and then just do a little touch-up paint and it looks really good um yeah it's a nice gray it's actually what we painted the interior with also um easy to touch up and it looks pretty good so that's what we're using and that's why we're using it but that basically solid he joint that we have there now will keep that arm from rotating so it'll act like a one piece a AR lower control arm but it gives us the adjustability to change the Caster quickly so we can move that lower control arm forward or backward basically where the knuckle sits on the outside so this can be moved forward or backward U by adjusting this length and then I have a left hand thread and a right hand thread uh on either end so you just turn it one way and it'll get shorter turn it the other way and it'll get longer so when we make those changes on the fly to get the alignment set for the first time when we start driving this thing or later on we go to different areas and we want a little more Caster a little less Caster um we can adjust all that stuff really easily if we find that we don't use it at all then I might just make a solid link later that's not adjustable um make it a little stronger and uh basically remove that solid he that will have some load on it so I can make something that's goes there that's a lot stronger basically just a tube with a tube welded to it in the other direction um so it' be like completely solid but the shock offset is not that bad it's about uh I think about 3 mm so um it should work fine and the reason that I had to offset the shock was to get the upper control arm the a AR as tight as possible uh but basically the shock has about 1/4 inch on each side so it's really tight in there and uh we still have some adjustability on top but yeah that was just something that we had to compromise just a little bit to make it all work correctly um to get as much angle out of the front suspension as possible and also keep all of the adjustability so with a build like this every single piece is custom every single hose and line and fitting um has to be picked out um so I've been spending a lot of time doing all that and just designing every single part to work the way I want it to work and to be as simple as possible so the line that's on the front right now that's that's actually the turbo oil drain line so it's on the bottom of each turbo and it's going downhill slightly just enough maybe a couple degrees um we got a t fitting here and then this will go down into that hole in the block right there and drain back into the bottom of the engine that's going to eliminate any uh need for pumps um it's also going to allow us to run those lines somewhere that's out of the way of heat because obviously with the exhaust system that we built it's going to sound great but it is complex uh this is a V12 and then we have that X collector and it's all under the hood rather than being under the car since we have a hood exit exhaust system um everything is just up top um so to eliminate some of those problems as far as heat goes instead of having the hose draining straight down and finding way for it to go past the uh the xpipe in the front and the turbos and all that was able to get that t fitting in the middle um just low enough it should work well draining the oil from the turbos cuz if you don't drain the oil properly from the turbos it will actually start to back up and fill the turbos and if the turbos get filled from oil on the top and they still have the pressure coming from the top while you're going to get smoke it's going to be pouring out of the turbine side and possibly even the compressor side of the turbo um getting everything in the intake manifold oily but also just burning a lot of oil so you have just ton of oil smoke coming out of the exhaust you know Tim I'm feeling a bit scruffy Beard's getting getting a bit long here don't worry about it Mike cuz thank manscape for sponsoring this video we have the beard and balls bundle with the beard 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you so on top of the engine where the turbo oil drain line is going to go uh there was this plate that bolts on uh I drilled it and I welded a-8 fitting to it but it did not weld very well so something in this material from Ferrari uh it's just very porous and the porous aluminum just tends to soak up like every single bit of dirt and oil and whatever contamination basically and uh it's not abnormal um cast aluminum does that and sometimes you can just kind of burn that stuff out you just add a little more heat to it and you'll see the stuff starting to work out to the surface it'll look like there's little black specks and little Pops that are coming out of it but usually you can get past that and add a little filler rod and burn through it and then actually get a decent weld it's never going to be great because it's on cast but you can still get a decent weld but that didn't really happen so this I feel is still really porous even though I passed over a few times trying to get all those bubbles out but you can see all those little black specks in there and it's not a huge huge issue since it's a cap on top of the engine so it probably won't ever leak any oil but if it was under pressure it definitely would leak because I can see all those little pores on it either way I'm not happy with this so I think I'm going to make a new plate here because we can so I will cut it out of uh probably some 3/16 maybe qu in alumin I'll measure this and see what I want to do I'll copy the shape and put it into Fusion 360 which is our CAD program that we use uh and then we can put a piece of material in the Jack Ram plasma table cut it out clean up all the edges drill the holes out nice and then well another fitting to it does it really matter no would this work fine yes but like I said I want everything on this car to be done as properly as possible and uh you know this might take me another half an hour 45 minutes to make this right but oh well I'm going to do it anyway I got to get the dimensions from this plate as far as the bolt holes go so I'm going to measure across these are square that one is outside of being Square um but I'll have to figure that out but first we get this in there kind of figure out how big the hole is it looks like it's 7.2 millim and then I'll zero it so now it's zeroed which allows me to measure from hole to Hole um but give me the hole centers instead of if I didn't zero it out and I measured across I'd just get the distance to the outside edges but I want it to the middle so I can get those pin points of where to cut the holes now I will go all the way open and it looks like it's about 5745 m M there I'm was going to write that down I had a pen standby is it lost standby okay we got that Dimension here are the other one 50 and then from this one I'm going to measure across this way [Music] 7.1 [Music] 57.1 and then that looks square but just to be sure I'll measure across this way so I can check that [Music] 80.5 okay now I can draw this up and fuse 360 I'm going to start drawing this out I'm just going to start by throwing down the circles so I can tell it the dimensions later but uh I'll start out with that and our hole was uh 7.15 mm we get another hole and we will keep it lined up with that one so five and then this hole is still in line with that one so we will put that one there and then we've got our last hole here that's a bit higher but we'll just throw that one up there somewhere it doesn't even matter like I can literally put it a foot away from there 7.15 all right so now I'll just Dimension these ones that first one is a 57 .45 next one 50 and then this one know actually I'm going to put something here to help keep it so I'm going to draw a line here to keep it vertical tell this that it's construction geometry which means it's not not actually a line it's just helping you line something up so now we've got that I'll put this here and tell it that this and this are coincident means it's lined up so that's on there now that's going to stay straight in line and I can tell it that it's 57.1 mm away 57.1 all right so that's our general shape right there all right yep and then I know that this was 80.8 across so I'm going to check that to make sure that that's correct so right now I'm getting 8099 I wonder if this hole is a little bit offset inside possibly so I'll take another measurement from here to here and check that 57 57.8 yeah that looks right 57 that's what I said right 57.8 yeah yeah that's that's really really close so that looks all right and the other one honestly was off by very small amount so that one was 80 80 80.8 8 and it's showing 80.9 yeah um yeah that's such a small amount I'm not going to be worried about that because this plate could have warped so when I welded it all together it might have moved a little bit it does seem like it warped up this way a little bit um might be off slightly but either way 6 mm bolts go on these holes they're 7 something 7.15 mm wide so there is some slight slop there so I'm not even going to worry about this it looks like it's really close so now I'm just going to figure out the ho center from there to here and figure out how big this needs to be around so that's 11 mm so basically I'm going to go with a 22 mm so draw some more circles 22 [Music] [Music] now I can draw some lines on them to connect it and since this one so these are vertical 90° horizontal that's easy this one's at an angle so I can draw a line here but it's not going to line up properly on the on the circle so they have another tool for that I'll just tell it that this and this are on a tangent and that lines it up perfectly so instead of trying to struggle and get it to drop in place you can just tell it that those need to line up and it does it for you so now that I have that I can trim away the extra parts of the circle that I do not need put a hole in the middle for the fitting so we just draw an X here and both of these are just for construction and now I've got a point in the middle to where I can draw another Circle 22 mm all right now we got our plate so that was it this program is awesome and we use it every single day when working on the F12 because every bracket every single piece needs to be custom made so without this would obviously take a lot longer this would be uh drawing this onto a piece of paper to figure everything out or taking this and trying to center punch it perfectly onto a a you know another piece of aluminum uh then cutting it in the band saw marking everything drilling the holes take a lot longer um and a little bit more room for air so that's why we love the plasma table um just makes everything so much quicker and we can actually get it done in a day all right ready to cut there we go now it's in Tim's hands yeah stand it down he's going to sand it down a bit and get it prepped up so I can weld it well Tim's getting that piece ready I'll show you guys what else we've been working on um which is basically all of the plumbing the water lines um all the oil lines which go to the cooler the oil lines for the turbo feeds uh the brake lines the vent lines for the radiator um even the top of the radiator we have to add um A-10 fitting over here for the water water to actually fill so before with the radiator in the front the engine had a port that connected to a tank you'd fill that t the tank up with water and it would drain down and get into the uh basically into the block that's eliminated now we actually cut that off um and welded AN aend fitting so we can use um all basically nice fittings instead of hoses with hose clamps we can screw everything together that helps in a in a race car it is easier to take apart and put back together consistently um but it also eliminates the chance for a hose to pop off a hose clamp comes a little loose or after a while the hose starts to get smashed down and it can work its way off um and pop off and obviously in a racing situation you do not want that you want everything to work perfectly all the time so the added expense and complexity is okay because it has the purpose of not failing but let me show you what we did to make that fit underneath the car here you can see that we've got the uh water pump right here with this plate that used to have uh inch and 3/4 basically uh piece of aluminum coming off to put a hose onto it it also had the port right here for the water to be filled so um there was a tank up top somewhere and a hose came down and would put water right here into the water pump like I said we eliminated that so we cut this down completely welded a dash 20 onto it with uh I think it was 150° fitting to get this to turn around in the direction we want and go to the back of the car this is for the oil cooler so this line goes into the oil pump on the back side um and then up front here is the bottom of the oil cooler so that line is all done and ready uh this one is also done so we have our water line that runs through there and on the crossmember then it'll run past the transmission here and all the way to the back of the car and right here is our secondary auxiliary water pump so this is an electronic water pump that's going to help with uh keeping that water flowing because we've got a long run now so we don't just have the radiator in the front now we've got this massive Radiator in the back of the car so we want to make sure that uh we have our water flow high enough speed we also don't want it to be moving in there too fast if you move the water too fast if it goes from the engine to the radiator back to the engine cycling too fast the radiator doesn't have a chance to work properly so having the biggest water pump in the world doesn't necessarily mean that your car is going to cool better it's all a balance it's the size of the radiator is it a single pass radiator where it comes in from the top and drops down to the bottom and just has one pass or is it a double pass or is it a triple pass um the radiator that we're using in this car is a double pass um it's quite thick um but not overly thick because again it's a balance if you get a really really thick radiator core it's hard for air to pass through it um NASCAR would run something like this because they're on these tracks going 200 mph basically consistently they never slow down they're always just kind of you know 180 to 200 something miles hour they have a lot of air pressure that's able to push through that really thick um radiator core and cool the car down but on this car this thing is only cooled with fans it's not going to get any air flow from the front even the ra uh the intercooler here is going to have two fans on the front and uh I've already got a shroud I'll show you guys that that we made but so we can't go too thick on the radiator the fans have to pull the air um and yeah you have to have the right amount of flow to have the radiator work efficiently so the radiator that the amount of time the water spends in the radiator allows it to cool off enough but also not too long for the that's in the engine to get really hot so it's a balance and having that electric pump will really help cuz we can control it with the ECU we can turn it on and off um to get you know to get it to work ideally if we need to I've run that same water pump um in all my Pro cars and a bunch of other cars it works really well it moves a lot of water but it doesn't flow overly fast I guess you would say then back over to the front of the engine under the car so this was obviously the other port for the water um so the water pump here this is water going into the engine this is the water coming out that's going to go to the radiator that hose is actually done it's just not installed at the moment but uh yeah made this hose got the fittings on there and you guys can see on the table we've got quite a few things going on we've got uh like a fuel block y here the uh radium fuel filter we have a fuel pressure regulator over there uh and then this guy is our water tank so another radium part so we're going to put this in the back of the car mounted above the radiator so this fitting right here is going to feed the top of the radiator and that's where the water is going to uh you know come in from the cap pour it in and it'll fill the radiator and fill the engine from that point right Tim yes yes yes yes yes yes yes indeed so that's the way uh I had my procars run um that radium tank it looks small but it works really really well it's actually got like a swirl pot in here to uh a little breather line and it circulates the water to get the air out of the system before it drops down here and goes back into the radiator and it's got a little sight on the side so you can see the uh coolant level from right there good stuff solid piece mhm all right what do you got there Tim you got the plate cleaned up mostly I didn't do the inside yet because I wasn't sure yeah we'll fit it fit it to the fitting to make sure it's the right size but uh when you lay that plate on top of the other does it line up right maybe have it backwards wait hopefully uh wait wait wait wait wait wait wait wait for it wait for it that's it yes looks good all right so we'll drill those holes out because uh basically when you cut it with a plasma cutter uh the hole is never exactly straight it's always tapered a little bit and same thing with the side cuts then the thicker the material is the more of that um you'll get kind of cut at an angle just because of the way the flame is on a on a plasma cutter um laser cutter or water jet cutter would be nice and straight but those are really expensive um and being that we don't work on any customer cars here it make no sense to get that these plasma cutters work really really well um we'll just pass the drill through there and drill it out to the right size and then we'll have a perfectly straight hole in the passenger side wheel well um we have the dry sump oil tank so a dry sump system is uh well it's race car stuff it keeps all of the oil in this tank rather than in the bottom of the engine there's a few benefits for this one is that you actually can use a lot more oil which seems like if it might be a waste but the more oil you have the more consistent the oil temperature is the less temperature Spike you're going to have uh so that's one benefit but the real benefit is that all of the oil gets pumped out of the bottom of the engine uh through these lines here and then into the tank and inside the tank it's got baffles and screens and all this stuff to basically take all the air out of the system and let that clean oil with no air dropped down to the bottom where it's sucked back into the engine so it'll run a two or three or four or five stage oil pump uh depending on how many pickups it has on the bottom of the engine and instead of having a really deep oil pan you have this really flat plate so the engine can be mounted lower in the car which helps with a center of gravity drops everything down obviously uh that allowed us to have all that space up top for the massive turbos and the whole exhaust system um and then you don't have to worry about it getting air in the system so in an oil pan you'll have to have like windage trays um you'll have to have baffles and like trap doors and all these things so that the oil pickup that's at the bottom um of the oil pan that goes into the engine goes into the oil pump if the oil is sloshing around and that thing suck some air well it's going to be pumping air through the bearings on the engine and that really only happens under like really severe driving conditions and lots of g-loads whether you're accelerating or breaking or turning or going over jumps or whatever might be that's a time when the oil is moving around in the system and you can get air bubbles and that's a really really easy way to spin a bearing a main bearing a rod bearing and cause some serious damage to your engine so luckily Ferrari already has a dry sump system so we've been able to utilize a lot of that um in this car and not have to redo everything because well it's kind of tried and true these engines make a lot of power normally aspirated from the factory um it's going to make about more than double now with our turbo uh system that we put on it uh but I think it will still be completely capable um of handling all of our uh oiling needs for this engine so I don't think there's going to be any issues there but we did have to change some stuff around to make it all work we've got uh obviously different coolers in the front so we've got this massive uh setrab oil cooler in the front with -16 oil line fittings like that's going to flow a ton of oil and this fitting was something I've waiting for for uh a few weeks it was on back order finally got it in um but it's an Earl's fitting and it uses a special type of Hose that's really lightweight but actually really strong as well um but either way we've got this now and it's a 45° fitting that's going to go on there and allow our oil line to pass uh down here through the chassis keep out of the way of the front wheels and we'll actually even make a plate or something that goes over here to block all this off so any debris that's coming off the tires or rocks or worst case if you hit that corner and knock the wheel back it's going to have a solid plate there that's going to prevent the Wheel from coming into the oil tank and knocking off oil lines and all that which could cause a lot more damage than just having a broken front suspension all right Tim is uh finishing up the plate here he cleaning up the birds on the hole Yeah so basically got the right size drill bit drilled those holes out so they're nice and straight now and then he's using this uh hole deburring tool which uh kind of just looks like a drill bit um at the end of it but that will give you a little bit of taper on those holes and not have like a sharp edge where there's just you know a little bit of jagged metal coming up but uh yeah if you guys can see that now we've got a nice clean hole and this thing is ready to get welded up need a little bit more clearance to get or fitting to locate in there it's almost there but uh it a little step right there or like Notch from yeah from where basically where it started um so we got to get eliminate that but it's also tapered so this is the bottom side and we actually want the fitting to go on this side but that hole is too small so the hole is tapered up uh so we got to make it Square all the way through this is probably not the exact right way to do it if I had a step drill um that would be better in that size but I don't and this is really close so I'm just going to be careful and uh start oh it's working it's working it's got just the right amount all right that should be it right that should be it so now it's nice and square and look at that perfect fitting goes on there it's even like almost snug enough to hold in place so perfect we'll just uh use the deburing tool on there and if you can see right now you got like that sharp edge oh yep I see it I just give that a spin here cut that sharp edge off of there do the same on the bottom and uh that's now it's ready to weld ready to weld [Music] [Music] all right it's all done it actually only took about 20 minutes to make this um prep it drill it and uh yeah weld it up so I like that a whole lot better that other piece was just so contaminated eventually you know would have had some little oil coming out of it it started making a mess on the top of the motor this should seal up perfectly and it looks a lot better so that's done let's get back to the F2 so I told you guys a little while ago that there is an issue um with the car with the engine um that seems to be really the most difficult part about this project is the factory Ferrari stuff um that's kind of been a challenge because there's so little information on these engines on the cars in general unless you have access to the dealer Network um and at that point if you have access to the dealer Network you're not supposed to share it with anyone Freud does not like that so getting information um from a few people I know little bits of information here and there has actually helped a lot like the torque specs for the engine very very important how tight do you do you torque the head bolts how tight do you torque the uh sump plate all that kind of stuff that needs to be precise you can't mess around with that also what size bearings because Ferrari has colors for their bearings as far as their thickness so it would be like a red or a green or a blue or whatever um would be different clearances and we needed that information before we could order the bearings when we went to the dealer they wouldn't give us that information they just said we need to know what color the bearings are in your engine currently but unfortunately all those little marks on the side of the bearing with like a little paint pen or whatever they use to mark them they were all gone so we had no idea what was in here originally so luckily the guys at dport know what they're doing they were able to measure the crank measure the block um precisely and figure out what that total clearance is um and then go back through the bearing color chart that we actually got from somebody I know um and we're able to say okay these are the bearings that we need this is going to provide us with the right amount of clearance so you need some clearance for the oil uh to basically make a film so you have the right amount of oil between the crankshaft and between the bearing um whether it's the rod or the main bearing both are going to have different clearances but those have to be very very precise and correct and a lot of different engine manufacturers have different clearances the Ferrari engine is all aluminum even the shells we or the where the bearing shs go in it's not a cast iron piece on the bottom or on top or a liner or anything like that it's all aluminum aluminum has different expansion rates and uh it might be almost zero clearance when it's cold when it warms up the aluminum will expand a little bit it's going to change but uh yeah going back to back in the day old Formula 1 cars they were so tight you couldn't even turn the engine over until it got warmed up so they would actually warm the engine oil up and and circulate it through the block and heat the block up to get it up to operating temperature to where the clearances were correct before they can start it up pretty crazy stuff um but that's that's the kind of precision we're talking about in some Motorsports and we're trying to emulate that with this car we want everything to be perfect so that's all moving along we have the bearings now we have all these things we have our Pistons we have everything right except we ran into a problem the problem is that the factory Ferrari cylinders are steel which is awesome they're not not aluminum so it's an aluminum block with steel sleeves that slide in and they have a bunch of O-rings around it I think three or four maybe even five per cylinder to seal from the oil uh and then water passages to cool the cylinders but the issue is that those cylinders have this crazy hard coating I don't remember what it's called I'll have to uh ask Michael from dport next time I go over there what that coating was called but that coating is nearly impossible to get off they had to buy a Diamond Cutter to be able to cut through the coating uh cuz we want a/4 mm bigger than Factory for our new Pistons but that's where we ran into another problem well that coating is about 3.28 mm thick so now that they've machined it out to the correct size for the Pistons that we got well there's so little coating left that they're worried that it's going to flake off and basically that coating super hard it's like a little razor blade so those little pieces of metal that would be going through the oil system if they did come apart would destroy the bearings and destroy the engine that's not going to work so we're going to have to take that material completely off uh we looked at some other option we looked at making new cylinder sleeves but the time frame was just too long we're getting like 6 weeks 8 weeks um and I was a little bit worried about it too because that material is going to be different than the Ferrari material so different expansion rates um and being that it's a slip-in cylinder not a press in cylinder which is you know machined and then you force that sleeve into it and then you bore it after this has to be precise because if that sleeve expands a little differently or doesn't expand as much now we might have coolant bypassing the O-rings and going into the oil or oil getting in um we can just run into a lot of other issues so our solution is to machine the cylinders out a half a millim instead of a/4 mm and have CP make us another set of custom Pistons but it turns out that that's going to be the fastest way to get this done um we should have those in a couple weeks and it's actually very surprising it's going to be the cheapest way to go making a another set of 12 Pistons is going to be cheaper than trying to buy a set of custom sleeves um and few th000 more obviously it's a few th000 but taking the chance of that coating starting to come off with the current Pistons that we have um being that that you know Ferrari original coating isn't completely gone I just didn't want to take that chance so a little bit of a delay but not huge uh luckily CP was like really willing to help us put in a rush order and uh they're going to have those ready for us in a couple weeks so that gets me back to why we're working on what we are working on currently rather than focusing on the rest of the car the radiator in the back the fuel cell all that stuff I really want to focus on everything here in the engine compartment because in about 2 weeks or maybe even a little less we're going to have to pull the engine out of the car to send it back to dport so I want to get all the stuff under the hood done which means all the plumbing for the turbos um obviously the exhaust system stuff is already done but oil lines uh main oil lines for the cooler all the water lines that are up front and the fuel lines that are up front so that's what I'm going to work on now the matte Sweden intake manifold is a work of art and our fuel rails are inside of the V which is not the normal spot it would usually be on the outside over here but to get the manifold built the way we wanted to to get it to the height to get the two throttle bodies um this is how it worked out also to get the injectors in at the right angle so you can see the injector ports there and they're actually in an angle that is very close to the angle that the air goes into the head so being that uh being that direction is going to help with the fuel spray so you get uh coming out of the injector you get this fuel spray and it's a really nice clean spray if you have it hit the side of the head and the intake Port it's going to kind of gather up and drip down the wall rather than being in a nice Mist that mist is what is going to burn fast and efficiently and consistently instead of it spraying on the side and dripping down where one combustion cycle you might have too much fuel the next one you might have a little bit uh less fuel so you're going to have some inconsistencies and the burn rate inside the cylinder is not going to be the same every single time so you might have your Lambda your O2 sensor readings which is uh seeing how much unburnt fuel there is coming out of the exhaust that's going to change is going to fluctuate a lot so hopefully with the injectors in this spot it'll be as consistent and uh the engine will run as smooth as possible and also as safely as possible having the right amount of fuel going into the cylinder every single time so to get all the uh fuel system plumbed up properly and uh obviously I want it to look really clean because uh I want it to be perfect so there's a bunch of different angles of fittings that you can buy so these ones are 60° these ones are 40 5° these are 90s and I think these are 120s uh I figured that the best one on the back of the manifold where the fuel pressure regulator is going to go onto the firewall actually I'll show you guys right now it's it's going to be tight um but I also want that symmetry in the engine compartment so right now everything is basically mirrored from left to right everything looks really similar um obviously we have the dry some oil tank on that side and not on this side but there are going to be some things that just don't have you know a partner on the other side um but the regulator is going to go in the middle and it's going to go behind the intake manifold which is a pretty pretty tight squeeze back here and get it in place there's also the brake line the front brake line T that's down there but it's going to go right here so right in the middle and then these fittings are going to point somewhere around there and then the fuel line is going to run next to the manifold on the side over to the front so the fuel rails being the full length here front to back on the back that's where we're going to have the fuel come in and it's going to pass through the rails past all the injectors then it's going to come out and basically swoop around the sides come over here and go into the fuel pressure regulator so so inside of here we've got a spring um and like a silicone diaphragm so the spring pressure holds down until a certain amount of fuel pressure um we've also got a port here to add boost to it so this is a boost dependent pressure regulator for every pound of boost we run it's going to increase the fuel pressure by one PSI so if we have 45 PSI static um basically with no vacuum or no boost and we have 20 lb of boost our fuel pressure at 20 lb of boost will be 65 PSI and the reason you want the fuel pressure to raise with the Boost is because you have pressure inside of the intake manifold so if you have 30 lb of boost and 45 lb of fuel pressure that fuel coming out of the injector is going to have to basically try to pass through 30 PSI of pressure and it's going to come out basically at 15 psi so we want to hold the fuel pressure steady in the in the engine have the right amount of fuel go in to do that you need a boost dependent fuel pressure regulator that's going to rise one to one so that's where we're using that um back to the fittings I played with some fittings I played with some routing and we just got these in that uh are the 120° I had some 90s on there it just didn't look right so hopefully I got it right with the 120s and uh it's going to be a bit hard to see but once we get that on there I think that looks really good so there's like just enough room in here for the fuel line to pass in between the manifold and the valve cover um to basically come through that spot right there and be really clean and I obviously want to keep it tight to the intake manifold so I'll probably even make some little standoffs off of the valve cover here that raise it up a bit um and allow me to run like a clamp to hold the fuel line there so I can have that fuel line nice and straight right at the edge of the manifold in between the valve cover um kind of floating there on those clamps to where it just looks like a black tube I don't want that hose to be flopping down I don't want it to stick out I want to stay as tight to the manifold as possible to keep it away from all the heat we're also going to make a heat shield that's going to bolt to the valve cover there's some nice spots on the valve cover already for that so we'll have a shield that comes up and blocks a lot of the heat from the intake from the coils from all the electronics in the middle of the engine but uh now that we've got the lines I'm going to start assembling those so we can get those lines made um then we'll pop the intake manifold off it's not bu it down we just pop it off and then I can mount the fuel pressure regulator back there get all those lines sorted um and then see what's next on the list for the Eng compartment I cut a piece of line that's probably about 3 four 5 maybe in too long uh it's just a whole lot easier to work with than having that 20t long piece of hose in the car um there are going to be mirrored so once I get the length of one side I can just copy it to the other side and this is a PTFE hose which is Teflon um so you can see there that it's not rubber it's actually like that white plastic that Teflon that's going to be compatible with basically any type of fuel so we're going to run ethanol in this car uh we're going to run the uh ignite ethanol that I ran in my cars in in uh in FD it's a really good fuel and I haven't had issues I've run normal lines on my car um but I always change them out just as like a maintenance thing every season I would change the lines running regular rubber Lin so this should last for a very very long time being Teflon so we're going to run that it's a little bit more expensive but like I said this is an expensive car so we're not going to skimp out on little things all right now I'm going to assemble these lines and they're a little bit different than a regular Aon line because because they are Teflon so they got this little like Acorn thing here that goes in between um you got to put this sleeve on first then open up the line a little bit which is a steel braided in there it's got like a fabric on the outside but there's actual steel fibers then put this on put a little oil on there and then this fitting goes in and it all screws together clamps it in place nice and tight all right so we've got our first part on um they've actually got some sort of of like a know it's exactly like a plastic or something that holds everything together it's hard to get off but it actually does work really well cuz it allows you to pass this on really easily um we just use masking tape this is a rough cut so we did get some fraying and you can see like how those steel fibers are hanging out the side I do not like assembling steel Brady lines you seem to always get poked and you're always like yeah saying ow when you're putting these things together but uh they work well um and I like that these have the fiber on the outside so they're not abrasive because the regular like steel braided outside if it rubs against anything it's just cutting through whether it's paint whether it's rubber whether it's hoses whether it's a battery cable it will just kind of chew through it so this is nice it's nice on the hands but it's also nice in the car if it touches anything it's not going to rub a hole or rub the paint dry just open that up a little bit get that started and just kind of like tap it down on there there we go so we got it all the way up to uh the step where it should be now I can put a little oil on this get this thing installed in there put in the Vise screw it together [Music] all right just like that I know some people really like to use uh aluminum adjustable wrenches or the uh a wrenches to assemble the lines but I've really found that a good adjustable wrench works really well doesn't leave any SC pches cuz you can adjust it really well and get it nice and tight on there as long as you're not like cranking on it sideways or if it's a little loose obviously it's going to leave some scratches and some marring um but yeah this is really quick it's easy and it's worked well for me obviously we've got this like V block thing too um which has all the shapes for the line to uh be held in place without it being on that rough Vice it's just going to dig in there and leave those marks on it but uh yeah that looks good we assemble the uh regulator we'll get it in place figure out the length put the other fitting on um and then we will clean the lines out because when you cut them you cut them off cut them with a cut off wheel and a braive cut off wheel so it's going to leave some dirt and pieces of metal and stuff in there obviously stuff we do not want in the oil system or fuel system so once we get it assembled we'll clean them all out I pulled the intake manifold off cuz I want to mount that fuel pressure regulator before I do the the fuel line and say that it's perfect because if it's a little twisted or a little bit further forward or a little bit further back the line's not going to be the exact right in length so we're going to mount it first so we pulled the intake manifold off um we drew the parts uh or where we need to drill the holes I got a an automatic center punch so this thing's spring-loaded inside you just push down on it and it'll act like you're tapping with a hammer so these things are really really useful uh for doing it with one hand in a odd position like this but I'll just line it up with with the center of that hole now we have a nice uh Center to get our drill bit started on there all right time to drill it [Music] out holes are drilled out and Tim is getting ready to put the nutts in there see a little uh action from the backside here I don't know if I caught that we'll have to get the other one when you put the other one in that's good but uh yeah that looks good so that thing is flared out as it should be and that will hold the bolts in place and these on are also knurled which means they have those little grooves on them that keep this thing from rotating so that is is a that's a big help because if you have these that are smooth and you put them in tight too much tighten them down or you go to loosen them and they actually Spin and that is a total pain here's the other one Tim we got this really cool nutsert tool here from uh I think was from Maco right yeah makes it so much easier than especially the bigger ones yeah cuz the bigger ones are like you really have to crank down on them too yeah so there's another type of tool where you just use like what looks like a standard rivet gun um like you know just grab it you squeeze it but it just kills your hands to do anything bigger than like a 6 mm uh or quarter inch like that's about all you can do by hand once you get to the 8 mm and 10 mm man it is uh it's brutal like after doing two of those by hand you will uh probably want to go home for the rest of the day and rest your hands in some ice water cuz it it kills you but uh all right let's see the next one Tim all right tell me when you're ready it's in the hole it's in a it's in a good spot here so we can really see what's going on all right go ahead and tighten it down there we go got that flare action that's looking good just back the tool out done boom now we are ready to mount our fuel pressure regulator right over there is it in there it's in looks like it is yeah it's in the right spot so on the bottom this bidding will clear that uh bulkhead t for the brake line so brake lines are going to come off each side and go to uh both the corners this dash six on the bottom will come straight down and go back and that's the return line so that'll just dump back into the fuel cell and this is where we're working on the line right now so I'll connect this line and it's going to come out and go forward uh so I'll put that line on real quick and then I'll drop the intake manifold back on it and we can figure out the length of the line so we can cut it and uh finish assembling that line so we got the line cut and assembled and it looks exactly how I wanted it to if fits pretty much spoton if I let it go it's going to pop out but uh I will get some clamps in there when we go to assemble it uh for the final time that we'll hold it in place like that so it'll almost be invisible you won't even see it um nice and stealth nice and clean like everything else will be under the hood of this car including the wiring um everything is going to look like it's tucked um and really minimalist so I really want the Fab work to stand out and not just hoses and lines of plumbing and all that I want that to be kind of uh hidden so that looks good I'm going to copy that over to the other side now since they are mirrored I'm just going to pull that line off and make the other one the exact same length that will finish that portion of the fuel line or the fuel system up the fuel lines under here um I still do have to make the other ones that go from the back of the rail to underneath the car but that's all on the chassis side not on the engine side so like I said my focus is really getting everything in the engine compartment done so after we get those lines done I'm going to start looking at the turbo oil feed lines um and also the turbo water lines we got the other fuel line done uh they're not installed because we don't need them on the car right now but both of those are ready to go when we're ready for it but we did get the plate uh put onto the engine it's just stuck on there with a couple bolts to line it up so we can make this last line here I'm going to take these off so I can get an accurate measurement cuz the line actually sits uh up against there so it'll push on and connect um but I want to make sure that I get the line the right length so I'm going to measure from there to there also I'm going to pull this back a little bit cuz it could go forward and it it just gets closer to the exhaust so I want it to kind of be in that area pulled back a bit and these lines will also get some of that uh heat protection hose over it so when we're all done with the lines then we'll slide that like silicone fiberglass heat protection stuff on top of it and that'll keep these uh this exhaust here from just roasting that line um that line is also the PTFE line with the steel braided with that nylon uh coating on the outside so it is really strong um and I think that Teflon is basically basically good for 600° oil temp's going to be like 250 so plenty high for the oil temp and if it does get hot from the exhaust it should be okay also but like I said we'll put that heat protection film in place just to make sure it lasts a long time and it is done so the oil return for the turbos all those lines are good to go now and uh I think I'm going to do one more line today I was looking at the turbo lines and I think I know how I want those to run uh probably 120° down here and kind of line up with this with another T and then it's going to go back because on the back of the block underneath the intake manifold is the uh basically the port for the oil pressure sensor which is also where we're going to get that oil from uh to feed the turbos since this car didn't come turboed from the factory it doesn't have like a standalone port for that to come out of doesn't matter we can use that one and it'll be completely fine so I'm just going to measure that up um and that line I might actually have made at a local uh Line supply place so they'll do all the crimp fittings and everything and make a nice compact line with the right angles and bends um and then I need to figure out the water lines the water lines are going to be a bit trickier same thing because this C did not come tur turbocharged um it doesn't have anywhere on the Block for water to go in and out for the turbos so I'm probably going to have to weld on something onto the front cover and uh something by where the water pump is down there to get some water to the turbos to have water circulate in the turbos that's especially important in these because they are aluminum center housing um these are the uh efr super core turbos so instead of a cast iron Center uh they're aluminum they're about 7 lb lighter each because of that but because they're aluminum they're a little bit more sensitive to heat uh obviously get super hot so we really need to make sure they stay cool if this was a road race car no matter what we would run water to them but on the drift car if it has a uh cast iron Center you usually don't have to run water to it because the runs are pretty short they cool down fairly fast in between um but being that this is a a Jim con car it might be run for a bit longer um who knows how Damon's going to drive his car he's going to drive the wheels off it for sure that's something we're going to have to make sure it's everything stays cool so that's just one other thing that needs to get plumbed in still have to figure that out I want to make sure it looks clean it's going to be kind of tricky to do if I come from the side over here um and go down the water Line's going to have to go kind of low and it's going to get pretty close down here to the exhaust manifold obviously we can put some heat shielding on it that might be the way to go um but I'm going to see what kind of fittings are available because if we just screw in like a dash s onto here and it's sticking out that fitting is not going to look right we can try to run a banjo fitting um or I might even make some get a banjo and make my own steel line that comes off and wraps around real tight and then goes to AN aend fitting somewhere else so not sure exactly what we're going to do there yet but that's something that I can actually do without the engine being in the car because the turbos themselves mount to the chassis so we've got these braces here so I can always mock up those after figure out all the fittings on the turbo and then all I have to do is just run the lines later but uh here's the last line I'm going to work on today and this is the other oil cooler line so we looked underneath the car earlier that's the one that's going into that uh Factory aluminum tube that goes to the oil PB this is the one that's going to go to the dry sum tank so I will route it the way it needs to get routed plug it in here bring it over there same thing measure the length cut it and assemble this line this one does assemble differently so I'll show you guys how this one goes together this line is uh I think it's called Ultra Pro so it's a Earl's line and it is a same thing Teflon liner but this one doesn't have any steel braid in it so it's super light it's also really really easy to cut and assemble all I have to do is use a razor blade and you can just cut through it that's it clean cut super easy it's just really expensive but wanted to use this line on the oil lines um to give it the flexibility because it doesn't Kink um and it's really flexible so we can get around everything that we need to get around easily without having the line kind of like bind up or get in our way because I'm assembling all these lines and doing all this stuff but I still have to move the steering rack so the steering rack right now uh its position is way off for where it needs to be for the angle kit that we made um basically it is too high and it's also too far forward so the tie rod angles are way wrong and that is just not going to work there's a lot of geometry um that goes on with the steering rack being in the right location as far as how much angle the car is actually going to have but also the angle between the two wheels so we want it to stay fairly parallel on a car like this on a drift car um on a street car or a road race car you're going to have different acren and acren is just the amount of difference between the outside wheel and the inside wheel because basically there's two radiuses that the car is traveling on because of the width of the wheelbase so um when you're making a U-turn in a parking lot you crank the wheel over or you park your car you'll see one the inside wheel has a lot more angle than the outside wheel um and actually just moving the steering rack will change the amount of ACR but also as it goes through its sweep it might go like this and go positive and then come back negative so that steering rack really needs to be in the right place we could do spacers and offset it and basically bolt something on here that moves the tie rod to a different point that is one way to do it that's the easiest way to do it but there's a lot of downsides to it it puts a lot of load on the steering rack sideways rather than it just being in and out it's going to try to twist the rack um and it's also going to try to bind the rack forward and backward so it's going to kill the rack seals really fast um this is still a Ferrari rack they're very expensive and we don't want to be buying steering racks all the time it's also kind of a pain to get to to change it out so to eliminate all that we're going to chop all of this off of the chassis I'm going to leave that front part there I'm going to use that as a guide so I'll actually make a plate that comes back um and holds the new mounting Point um we'll make that out of aluminum it'll get all welded up and triangulated and we'll show you that that uh process later on that'll also happen when the engine's out it's a lot easier to do but all that being said I want to make sure that these lines are able to move and pass by stuff so we went with these lines um this is all ready to go now so I just need to assemble this bolt it together and then same thing clean it out this one goes together a bit different it's actually got like a screw um and the material inside here is kind of like a yeah basically looks like a spring it's a coil so so we'll put this together kind of goes on the same way this one just screws on and then it clamps together so really easy to assemble these lines and there's no steel braid to poke your fingers all right that's it for today we got that last oil line done that's all plummed up now I'm going to go through uh some of the fittings and just kind of search online to see what my options are uh so I can figure out the rest of the turbo water plumbing and all the other little things that I need to get done um if you guys like this content let us know in the comments below I know we just posted uh the video of my AMG on the stories Channel it was an hour long seemed like you guys liked it so if you guys like this stuff going more into detail on what we're doing on the cars how we're doing it the process uh let me know and we'll do more of it because it's not that big of a deal for us we're here we're working on it we're doing it Tim holding the phone right now MH mhm we're making stories happen so it's obviously not going to happen every single day cuz got a lot lot of stuff that we got to get done as well and filming does take time but you know maybe once a week maybe twice a week a stories video with a lot of just in the shop content working on the car let me know see you guys later